Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 09:32:45 -0500 From: "Benjamin J. Hawkins" Reply-To: bhawkins@shirenet.com To: xl-list@ZooStation.CNS.OhioU.Edu, ranzap@cameron.net Subject: Poormans Stage 1 Mods? - Do it right. Last summer I hopped up my '96 XL1200C with a stage 1 mod, and couldn't be happier! The bike is a rocket. Before I made the mods tho' I researched every possible avenue I could take because I wanted the most HP/doller, but I also wanted to do it right. So here is my two cents: 1. Don't modify your stock mufflers - for a couple reasons. First, the Cycle Shack slips-ons are the same as the SE slip-ons without the HD script, but at a discount. You won't be paying a premium for the name, but you'll be getting very good pipes and using them as they were designed to function - backpressure, flow, reversion, etc., etc.. Second, if for whatever reason (ie inspection, resale) you'll have the stock pipes to stick back on. If some reason you trashed the stockers, then had to buy new ones you'd find they are MUCH, MUCH more expensive than the SE slipons. I think they sound better than modified stockers, too. 2. Rejet the carb as per Maurice's instructions (they've been posted a couple of times). You'll spend all of $10, and end up with a carb which functions just as well as if you had rejetted with a Dynojet or some knockoff. You'll save yourself $40 to $60 dollars here. 3. Buy the SE Aircleaner - for a few reasons. First, if you followed item #2 you saved enough money to pay for the SE ac. Second, the SE ac is going to flow better than a modified stock ac. Third, its been shown in several reviews that the SE ac flows better than almost anything else (it uses a K&N filter). Fourth, it looks better than stock because you get rid of that ugly plastic back plate. Fifth, once again, sometime down the road you might have to replace the stocker and it will cost A LOT to buy a new one. 4. While your doing this, spring for the extra $10 and replace the carb top with a chrome top. Just my opinion. Enjoy the stage 1 mods! I know I do. Ben '96 XL1200C N. VA Wait, there is more. Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 11:16:03 -0400 From: (Richard Leonard) To: xl-list@ZooStation.CNS.OhioU.Edu Subject: Re[2]Basic performance improvement (from Rich Leonard) LONG Hi Fellow Riders: I have complained enough about the lack of information. For our mechanically inclined riders I offer the following. Starting out - what can I do to reverse the "EPA" mandated noise and emission required restrictions and make my bike run better with a little HP increase for a minimum of dollars. These suggestions can be done by most anyone with a minimum of mechanical knowledge BUT one WILL NEED a service manual applicable to their particular bike. We have to look at 3 steps in this process 1. intake air 2. carb jetting 3. exhaust air ********************************************************************** Intake air - the stock aircleaner is very restrictive both in airflow and noise abatement. You can approach this in two ways. 1. Buy a Screaming Eagle air filter kit ( about 65.00 or so) This kit does open up air flow the best of most of the other aircleaners. For newer bikes you may have to also purchase a head breather kit. Understand there is also an increase in noise from the intake air. 2. Buy a free flow aircleaner element and drill additional holes in the stock aircleaner housing,(in the back around the outside of the air cleaner), this is a lower cost solution and I can not vouch for its effectiveness. Either way you will be forced to take the next step which is rejetting because the additional airflow will make the bike run leaner than it already is. Running leaner will cause the famous "carb fart" at low speeds and a loss of performance all across the power band. ********************************************************************** Rejetting the carb. This is much easier than it first sounds. You have to work slowly and carefully but most anyone can do it. One thing to remember, your working with brass and aluminum here - both soft materials. If it doesn't seem to fit, step back, read the instructions, recheck your work. If you bugger things up its new carb time, read that $$$$... Choose a rejet kit. They come in several flavors, real cheap( a 1988 needle, 45 low speed jet, 170 high speed jet, maybe $15 - $20 from the dealer), a clone kit which should run you about $32, the famous dynajet kit $65, or the yost master kit $85. Follow the instructions from the kit exactly with maybe a little help from your local wrench, (to help with the tuning which will depend on your location.) The jet sizes used may vary with altitude and location. On the web - world-wide-glide.com has a good article on CV40 carb tuning and there are several other sources on carb tuning. FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO THINK A STOCK CV40 IS JUNK, BUELL GETS 101HP FROM A CV40 CARB. ********************************************************************** Which brings to the exhaust. This is completely a subjective choice on which set of pipes to use but to remove the stock and put on a set of drag pipes is not the best choice. That cross over does have an effect on the overall exhaust system. Now, we are talking low dollar modifications here. One of the first and least cost alternatives is to knock the baffles out of the stock pipes. This will make them louder and provide marginally better flow. One can also take a 2" hole saw and completely remove the stock baffles which would definitely increase flow. This is the cheapest way to get better exhaust flow. I believe there was an article in a magazine not too long ago dealing with sawing out the baffles on a stock muffler. I also believe they had some data on how much it helped the motor HP. Purchase a set of slip-ons, Screaming Eagles at $110 per set, or cycle shack at a lesser price. Most have some sort of baffling which is much less restrictive than the stock(unaltered) mufflers. The noise level are much higher and they generally flow better than unaltered stock. ********************************************************************** In the end, don't expect screaming - tire burning - wheely type of horse power gains from these modifications. These will also make your bike "off road only" - be completely illegal for on the road bikes, , .. But it will reverse the EPA mandated noise and emission requirements. If done with care the bike will run better all through its power band giving you a little more "seat of the pants" HP feel. For the huge HP power gains - break out the wallet, divorce the little woman, sell your kids and the house - simply go crazy. Or one can buy a Buell lightning with its 101HP at roughly $10,000 or so. I would expect that between the aircleaner, jets, and exhaust, a person could have a better running bike with and expenditure in the $120 range and be able to do all the work themselves. Even adding some slip-ons would raise that figure into the $200+ range does not make this beyond the financial abilities of most of us and these mods can be made by anyone with mechanical abilities. Myself, I have learned most of this by trial and error, reading all the popular books,reading the bike's service manual, and making a complete pest of myself at the dealer and at the local after-market shop, some of which I am barred for life. I have made expensive mistakes, like when I ruined the rubber diaphragm in the carb just before a long trip. Spent 4 hours chasing the right throttle cables to fit a CV40 carb I purchased to replace the keihen butterfly on my 1987 sportie. I hope this will help any new bike owners or owners who want to modify their bikes "on the cheap" or simply want to make their bike run a little better. With this I will retire to my little corner of the world waiting until my sweet and loving wife lets me again break out the wallet and play some more. Ride safe - ride often Sporties Forever Rich Leonard