Note: this image is taken from the 1999 H-D Parts Manual and is provided only for illustrative purposes only (i.e., so that you will know what I'm talking about). Go out and buy a copy of the Parts Manual, it's some of the best money you can spend, next to the Service Manual.
| Index No. | Description | Index No. | Description |
| 1 | Screw | 15 | Knob Adjuster (2) |
| 2 | Washer | 16 | Plug Bolt (2) |
| 3 | Lockwasher | 17 | Retaining Ring, oil seal (2) |
| 4 | Nut | 18 | Fork Slider and Tube Assembly - right |
| 5 | Slider Tube Assembly (2) | 19 | Fork Slider and Tube Assembly - left |
| 6 | Spring (2) | 20 | Spacer (4) |
| 7 | Lower Stop (2) | 21 | Spring Collar (2) |
| 8 | Spacer, oil seal (2) | 22 | O-Ring, kit (2) |
| 9 | Oil Seal (2) | 23 | Cap Adjustable, slider tube (2) |
| 10 | Washer (2) | 24 | Cover, slider (2) |
| 11 | Screw (2) | 25 | Damper Tube (2) |
| 12 | Seal, dust (2) | 26 | Slider Assembly - right |
| 13 | Bushing, upper (2) | 27 | Slider Assembly - left |
| 14 | Slide Bushing (2) |
Prep Work: Before you even get the front end off the ground, there are a few things that you should do first. It's much easier and safer to break loose some of those high torque bolts before you get your bike up on a lift. I would suggest breaking loose the front axle and pinch screw (1) for the axle, and the four pinch screws in the triple trees (note: don't loosen these, just break them loose very slightly)
Disassembly: Now there are a few things that will need to be removed in order to complete this job. Remove the speedo/tach and handlebars (note: you can just undo the the handlebar clamp and lay the whole handlebar assembly on a towel, on top of the tank). Yes, this is necessary to get at the top of the forks, while still in the trees so that you can break loose the top of the forks. Now is the time to remove the front wheel, the fender, and all that fun stuff attached to the forks. See your manual, I'm not going into that here.
The Forks: Please bear in mind that (a) this is NOT the approved, H-D method for changing the fluid in the 1200s cartridge forks and (b) that this method is really only for just replacing the fluid, it won't allow you to do much else to the forks, like change the seals. Basically this is just a modification of the traditional method for changing the fluid in regular H-D forks, just by-passing disassembling the adjustable cartridges.
With the forks still firmly in the trees, take a 1 3/8" deep socket (note: be sure to use a socket and not an open-end wrech as the wrench will more than likely distort the caps and/or fork. If you have a difficult time finding this socket check a local industrial supply or welding supply place...that's where I found mine) and break the entire adjustable cap assembly (23) loose. Now loosen the pinch bolts and remove the forks from the trees. With the forks out, finish removing the caps (23) (note: unlike regular forks, this assembly is not under tension by the spring, so don't worry about parts bouncing off your forehead or through your ceiling)). With the caps (23) completely unthreaded, you can extend the cartridge, but not remove it. Carefully pour out the old fluid into a clean container. Take this fluid and measure how much you removed, this is important! Note how the manual does not state how many fluid ounces are in the 1200s forks, you are supposed to measure from the top with the forks disassembled. Well, by measuring what you removed, you know how much to put back. Also, make sure to do each fork separately, and make sure you get the same amount from each fork. If you don't get the same amount, you've got a problem somewhere and probably should totally disassemble the forks to check for a problem. FWIW, I get ~ 7 oz. out of my forks, and replaced the fluid with Bel-Ray 15W fork fluid to help minimize braking dive (which it did help without making the ride harsh).
Now just replace with the fluid of your choice the exact amount that you removed. You'll probably have to be creative with the funnel since the forks won't extend much, but it's not that difficult. Make sure that both forks are the same or you will have handling problems. Also, the same tricks (that is, heavier fork fluid, more or less fluid, etc.) can be used on the 1200s forks as on regular forks, just use a little common sense.
Reassembly: Basically it is the reverse of what you did to get things apart. However, pay special attention to the alignment of the forks, relative to one another. That is, the fender and front axle should fit perfectly, if they don't they something is not aligned properly and if you don't correct this, your front end will be in a bind. This will create handling problems and wear parts out quickly, if it doesn't kill you first. Stay tuned, I'm gonna do an article about this soon.
Last Updated: Tuesday, November 09, 1999
All text Copyright © 1999 N. Garretson. All rights
reserved.
Absolutely no reproduction allowed without prior permission
from the author.