Just thought I'd pass on a few tips to those who
might be installing the HD "'95 and later" tach kit 
on an 883.

Here are some deviations from the directions.  First,
the connector for the speedometer and tachometer has
changed on '97, and possibly '96 models.  The tach has 
three leads, one for ground and two with pin sockets to 
go into empty slots in the connector.  The problem is
that the pin sockets on the two tach wires are round 
(for the old style connector).  You will need to cut
these off and crimp on two of the Amp square type pin
sockets (HD part # 73191-96).

You DO NOT need to remove any of the pins from the
socket, or pull any of the wires out of the flexible
plastic conduit, as the directions say.  Just fish
the tach wires down through the conduit to the
connector and plug them into the back of the 
connector according to the directions.  The crimp
on the pin sockets has to be perfect, or they won't 
go into the connector all the way and click in solidly.

Oh yeah... ignore the directions for unlocking the
secondary locks on the connector.  See the directions
in the service manual for the new type connector.

You DO NOT need to cut the speedometer ground wire
and use the butt splice to tie in the tachometer ground
wire as the directions say.  The speedometer wires
are in two thinner flexible plastic conduits inside the
main flexible plastic conduit.  Pull the thinner
speedometer conduit that has the speedometer ground wire
out of the thicker conduit as much as you can (on the 
speedometer end of the thick conduit), cut a small hole 
in the inner speedometer conduit that contains the 
speedometer ground wire, and fish the tachometer ground 
wire back up through the inner speedometer conduit into 
the speedometer with the other wires.  Crimp a 1/4" ring 
lug on the tach ground wire and connect it to the same 
ground stud in the speedometer that the speedometer 
ground wire goes on (ground wires are all black).  
The ring lug you use should be non-ferrous (brass or 
aluminum--you can't pick it up with a magnet).  If it 
isn't, the speedometer may read incorrectly.  What you 
wind up with is a tach ground wire inside the thin conduit 
for the tach wires that goes down into the thick conduit, 
turns around 180 degrees, goes back up through the thin 
conduit that has the ground wire for the speedometer, 
into the speedometer where it attaches to the same ground 
point as the speedometer ground.  This is a better 
grounding solution that cutting and splicing the original 
wire.

Since you have to remove the tank and fish the 3 pin
connector (for speedometer sensor) all the way back up
the bike, you'll wind up cutting some of the cable ties
that hold the wiring harnesses to the frame.  MAKE
CAREFUL NOTE OF THE EXACT ROUTING OF THIS CABLE AND
REINSTALL IT EXACTLY WHERE IT WAS.  If you don't, the
spark plug wires will confuse the signal.  The provided 
cable ties are too short to go around the main part of 
the frame, so you'll need to get some 12" black cable 
ties from Radio Shack.

A couple of other notes.  The thickness of the lettering
(i.e. the numbers) on the tach seem to be a bit lighter
than those on the speedometer.  I can live with this.
The other thing is that two instruments seriously
detract from the nostalgic, thin Sportster profile look.
You'll get used to it, but it certainly doesn't look as
good as the speedometer up there by itself.  I feel
having the tach is worth it though... I wouldn't go back
to drum brakes for the nostalgic look... hell, I wouldn't
even get wire wheels... been there, done that... tubeless
tires on cast wheels are great!
 
Hope this helps,
--
L. Maurice Riggins                 e-mail: lriggins@engr.udayton.edu
Engineering Computing and          http://www.engr.udayton.edu/staff/lriggins
  Information Services Manager     office: Kettering Labs, Room 211
The University of Dayton           phone: (513)229-3171
300 College Park                   fax: (513)229-2756
Dayton OH  45469-0229              (zipcode -0229 is my campus mailstop)